aid, aid climbing – using gear to support your weight and/or make upward progress
anchors, belay anchors – system used to secure you to the rock at the beginning/end of a pitch; may be composed of bolts or traditional protection such as SLCDs, nuts, etc.
ascenders – mechanical devices used to ascend ropes
ATC® – belay and rappelling device made by Black Diamond®
back clean – process of reaching back to remove gear as you progress to the next placement
back-clip – to thread/clip a climbing rope incorrectly through a carabiner connected to protection when leading, increasing the chance the rope could unclip from the carabiner if pulled obliquely during a fall
bail – to get off of a route as fast as possible due to an inability to continue
bashies – small copper or steel headed nuts usually hammered into cracks or pin scars
belay – (verb) the act holding the rope while your partner climbs to protect them in case they fall; (noun) the belay anchor (see anchors)
beta – information about a route or move sequence
Big Bro® – a spring-loaded tube which is used to protect wide cracks made by Lowe Alpine®
big wall – a climb so long it is generally climbed in more than one day
bivy – bivouac; to sleep outdoors (no tent)
bounce test – to use your weight to test the strength/integrity of a piece of protection before committing to it
Camalot® – a specific brand model of SLCD camming device
camming device – a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) placed in varying sized cracks to protect a climber in case of a fall
carabiners – aluminum alloy D or oval shaped units with a spring-loaded gate used for connecting gear/ropes/climber, offered in simple or locking versions
cheating – using gear to rest or make progress but claiming to have free climbed a route (see French free)
chicken head – knob-like natural rock formation
chimney – (noun) a space between two walls big enough to fit your body and touch both sides. (verb) a climbing technique utilizing opposing force to ascend a chimney
chock – any wedge-shaped device placed in the constrictions of a crack to use as protection
cleaning – removing gear on a route, usually done by the climber seconding
copperheads – various shaped small copper nuts on wires used to hold body weight after being hammered into small cracks or pin scars when aid climbing
daisy, daisy chain – cord or sling used to attach a harness to an anchor; a pre-sewn sling with bar tacked loops for use in aid climbing
dihedral – open book formation where two perpendicular walls meet
etriers (aiders) – nylon step ladders used for moving higher on an aid placement
exposure – a state of being where, due to the sheerness of the rock and the situation, a real or imagined lack of security is felt
Fifi hook – open hook used to connect gear
figure 8 – a cast metal belay and rappelling device
fix a pitch – to climb a section, secure the rope in place, and descend with the intention of returning to the high point by means of later ascending the rope
fixed gear, fixed pin, fixed rope – gear left in place (either temporarily or permanently)
free climbing – climbing using only hands and feet (and other body parts) against the rock (ropes and other gear used only to protect in case of a fall)
French free – the practice of pulling on gear (without using aiders) to advance progress; not considered valid free climbing, but acceptable as aid technique
Friend® – the original SLCD protection device invented by Ray Jardin
haul bag, ‘pig’ – bag for carrying gear, portaledge, food and supplies up a long route
hauling – hoisting a climber or load, usually using mechanical advantage
jam, jamming – placing fingers, hands or toes into narrow rock formations
jug – (verb) to climb a rope using ascenders; (noun) a large handhold
Jumar – (noun) a brand of ascenders, but commonly used as a generic term for ascenders; (verb) to jug – mechanically ascend a rope
lead – to climb a section first, placing gear for protection while moving upward
Logan® skyhook – steel hook for hanging from thin flakes of rock
mashies – see ‘bashies’
micro-wires – small passive nuts used for aid climbing progress or marginal protection
nut – a tapered metal wedge with an attached wire which is placed in the constriction of a crack for protection
“off belay” – the command used to tell your partner that you are safely anchored at the end of the pitch, and no longer need to be protected by them holding the rope; also, the state of not being protected by a partner with the rope
offsets – a nut with an uneven taper which allows them to fit nicely into many pin scars
off-width – a crack either too narrow or too wide to be used easily for progress or protection
“on belay” – the command used to tell your partner that you are securely holding the rope to protect them as they climb; also, state of being protected by your partner with the rope
onsight – to climb a route previously unattempted
pendulum – a running swing taken by a climber suspended by the rope to gain another part of a wall
pig – nickname for the haulbag
pin – piton
pinkpoint – to redpoint a rock route equipped with pre-placed quickdraws
pin scars – damage to the cracks caused by the placement and removal of pitons
pitch – the distance covered by the leader before stopping and bringing up the follower; usually around 100-165 feet (35 – 55m)
piton – a variety of metal spike shapes hammered into cracks in the rock for protection
portaledge – suspendable single or double sleeping platform
protection, pro – the generic term for any active or passive gear (i.e. piton, nut, camming device, etc.) placed in the rock to stop a climber’s fall
quickdraws, draws – short sewn slings with a carabiner attached to each end for clipping bolts or trad gear for protection
rappel, rap – to descend a single or double rope using a friction device or by wrapping the rope around the body (Dulfersitz)
redpoint – to lead climb a route previously practiced while protected
redirect – improvised method of directing the load on an anchor or belay
rivets – a small metal screw hammered into a shallow hole drilled into the rock
roof – an overhang or horizontal ceiling
rope drag – resistance or pull caused by the rope going through protection or around natural rock features in a circuitous fashion
R.U.R.P.® – ‘realised ultimate reality piton’; a small piton used in aid climbing
screamer, extender – pre-sewn sling designed to rip out and extend a fall, minimizing the impact load upon an anchor or piece of protection (originally designed by Yates®); a long or frightening fall
seconding – climbing second and cleaning a route; following a leader up a route
send – to climb a route
sharp end – the leader is said to be on the sharp end, because they are at a greater risk of injury in a fall than the follower
shortrope – belay a partner while simul-climbing, using a shortened section of rope
simul-climb – both partners climb simultaneously once the leader reaches the end of the rope
stem – to push against opposing or adjacent walls with your feet
TCU® – A model of camming device utilizing three cams instead of the traditional four
tie in short – to tie a knot in the trailing end of the rope you are jugging and attach it to your harness to limit a potential fall should your ascenders slip or detach from the rope
topo – topographic map of the route
top roping – being belayed from above with a rope while climbing
top-stepping – in aid climbing, getting your feet into the highest (top) steps of your etriers to maximize reach for the next placement (the optimal situation).
trad gear – hand placed active and passive protection gear (not insitu bolts or other gear)
trad route – rock route climbed only using traditional gear for protection
Tricams® – a traditional single passive, slung camming unit with a point that is placed in cracks for protection, invented by Lowe Alpine®
