Basic Big Wall Gear

by John Middendorf

Big-wall climbs are, amoung other things, technological achievements. The management of more items than contained in a small mountain shop can be a considerable task in itself. The actual climbing is, by comparison, simple. The trick is to keep things under control with an organized gear management system.

Big walls are gear intensive, but its possible to get started on the big stones with a moderate amount of additional gear aquisition, dependent on the amount of improvization and borrowing that is done. The following is a basic checklist of the gear required.

Main Equipment

• Single or Double Portaledge
• Haulbags
• Ropes (2-3)
• Hauling Pulley
• Stuff Sacks for food and gear organization
• Water Bottles (2 liter soda bottles)
• First Aid Kit (cloth tape, Neosporin, aspirin, etc.)
• Repair Kit (Duct tape, Speedy Stitcher, etc.)
• Food

Rack

• 2-3 Sets of camming devices
• 2-3 sets of wired stoppers
• 2-3 sets of small brass-nuts
• 80 carabiners
• Hook selection (2 to 5 of the standard types)
• Copperhead selection (10-25)
• Pitons (5-10 knifeblades, 10-20 horizontals, 15-25 angles)
• 3 to 5 Birdbeaks
• Tie-offs and runners
• Bolt Kit (optional)

Personal Wall Gear (per climber)

• Harness
• Aiders
• Jumars
• Hammer & holster
• Headlamp
• Rain gear
• Wall-boots
• Kneepads and fingerless gloves
• Wall spoon and Swiss army knife
• Sleeping bag and ensolite

Pre-big-wall tips

Buy food (canned pasta and bagels are good staples) outside of the Valley for the best deals. Sew clip-in loops on all the stuff sacks and sleeping bags. Add tie-off loops to everything, including the water bottles. Maybe saw off some 3/4″ (and larger) angles for some shorty pitons. Get psyched, and remember that the first day or two of the wall are the hardest.